Basic Tools for the Newbie
A frequent question on alt.home.repair asks, what is a basic set of tools for the novice/new
homeowner. The answers they get are a remarkable scatter of widely varying advice.
people even suggest starting with table saws and routers. Despite these big differences, the
opinions seem to be strongly held. Best I can figure, each person's individual experience has
resulted in these firmly held, yet very different, opinions. In face of this danger, I'm going to
venture to give some advice.
At this point I should explain, one camp says, "Why buy any tools in advance. Wait 'til you need
a tool--then buy it. This way you never buy anything you don't need." I ask, what if it's Saturday
night and water is spewing everywhere?
There's general agreement that cheap tools are a bad buy and can damage your work.
So, I am going to give a very rough
estimate of what you should expect to pay for an acceptable quality item of each type. My
complete starter set would cost you about $200.
I have tried to list these tools in order of need, starting with most essential.
I get no money whatsoever for the products or webpages mentioned
my own program].
They are my unrewarded opinions and reports.
Almost everyone agrees a first purchase would be screwdrivers. A minimum of three sizes of
flat blade screwdrivers and two (a #1 & #2) Phillips drivers. -- $6 each individually or about $3-$4 each in a set. The upper line of Stanley screwdrivers are usually quite good.
Klein also makes good screwdrivers -- Lowes' carries Klein. Buy Good
Screwdrivers! Cheap screwdrivers and wrenches may be the worst cheap
tools there are. Try to resist using your good screwdrivers as pry-bars or
chisels -- get some bargin table screwdrives for this.
An ordinary 16oz claw hammer -- $15
Starting here opinions vary.
The next tool I'd get is a 1" wide by
25' tape measure -- $9. A bright colored case will help
you find it when you lay it down in a jumble of stuff. The 30' version
crams too much tape in the package, so it doesn't operate smoothly.
-- Click here for my article on choosing a
A utility or box knife with a retractable blade -- can't remember price but, don't get the
cheapest because the blade retractor can slip suddenly and risk your hands and what you're
working on. Again, a colorful one is easier to locate. Other people like the
IRWIN 2082300. My current favorite is a
big yellow Stanley model 10-989.
blade holder/scraper -- $3. These things come in handy for
scraping/cleaning all kinds of things, such as, windshield stickers, paint on
windows, caulk on tubs/tile, and on-and-on. Unfortunately the single-edge
razor blades my kind uses have become obsolete so you have to buy them specially for these scrapers at special prices. If you have a style you think works better that
mine send me a picture.
12" flat-jaw, arc-joint plier (tongue and grove). They're called
Channelocks because that
was the original and traditional brand. A problem with Channelocks is they scar up whatever you use them on. If you use them on a decorative object (such as a chrome plated faucet) they'll mar/ruin it. In theory you can wrap the object in something to protect it, but in my experience the jaws usually bite through to the metal.
A strap wrench may be the answer for decorative fixtures, but I've not used one enough to know how well they work.
I used to recommend the self-adjusting
style sold by
Sears under the name RoboGrip, but I don't any
more. Sometimes the self-adjusting feature slips, and RoboGrips won't work in as tight a space
standard Channelock style, and it takes a bulker tool to get the same jaw
opening (useful size). So, I've gone back to suggesting the regular
Channelock style as a starter tool.
Others suggest an adjustable (Crescent type) wrench
(10-12"), instead of a arc-joint plier. I
feel if you can only have one, in a
pinch, the arc-joint will do almost anything a wrench will do, and will do many
things the wrench won't. The arc-joint is be more likely to scar the fitting, but it's "any
port in a storm."
Note: I should explain at this point, my philosophy is, if you are only going to buy one size of a
given adjustable tool, get a larger one (not a giant). That's why, in the above case I suggested the
12" over the 9" or 7". It will usually do the smaller jobs (albeit perhaps more clumsily), thus it will get
you through a wider range of jobs. Others disagree with this, saying the smaller is likely to do
most jobs and is more convenient to use.
A drain/toilet plunger
(plumber's friend) -- $15-$20
Now we have to talk about hand saws and this is where my experience clouds my advice. Many
people say a hand saw is a basic tool. Yet, I didn't own a hand saw for my entire adult life until
a few years ago. My first saw was a sabre/jig saw (~ $50) which I used for my few necessary sawing
jobs. Some people swear by them, I tend to swear at them. I still find it damn near impossible to get a smooth/regular/straight cut with these gadgets
but, it did the crude cutting I needed until I bought a circular saw -- often called a 'Skill
because Skill either invented them or made them famous. I wouldn't buy Skill brand today.
For a circular saw, a lot of folks on alt.home.repair like the 6"
Porter-Cable SawBoss at about $120. I now own a SawBoss and I'm pleased with
it, but you may want to get a 7 1/2" saw if you are only going to have one
'cause it will do heavy duty jobs. The bigger version will do anything the
SawBoss will do, albeit a little more clumbsly. So, you probably want to
get a 7 1/2". With a circular saw, a saw guide and a little practice you can do almost any lumber or plywood
cutting you need to do. I am not suggesting a circular saw is a basic tool but, if you progress to
stage II of home repair you'll probably want to get one.
If you decide to get a hand saw I suggest you consider the Stanley Contractor Grade Short Cut
(15"/12 point) model 15-086 or similar. These small saws are easy to store and carry and will do
most hand sawing jobs. Or, Just to confuse you, you may want to consider a
saw. I recently bought one but haven't used it enough to give an
opinion. They have
a growing number of advocates.
a brief discussion of the merits of this style saw. (Note: Yes, I know,
these suggestions reverse my, 'Get the bigger adjustable wrench' philosophy, but after all, is a hand saw really a necessary basic tool. :-)
finally some people swear a hacksaw is the best "only saw."
Hacksaws are intended for cutting metal and pipe, but they'll cut almost
anything crudely. They are sort of a manual sabre/jig saw -- cuts crude
but can get you by in a pinch. I use a hacksaw about once a year, but if
it were my only saw I'm sure I'd use it more often.
A scratch awl -- ?$6? You can probably get by using an
ice-pick for this but, the awl has more
A pair of ordinary 7" slip-joint pliers with wire cutting jaw -- $7
Now we come to the electric drill. Without question, the most useful and versatile power tool
you will own. For your first drill I'd recommend a
3/8" corded (plug-in) drill -- $60-$70. Cordless drills are very convenient for regular users but,
they're more expensive, heavier, with lower power and, if you seldom use them the battery
is likely to be discharged when you need the drill. Also, if you get one
with a NiCad battery it will probably need to be replaced every couple or three
years and the batteries are almost as expensive as the drills. Keyless chucks are convenient but, they tend to slip
on hard drilling jobs so, for your only all-purpose drill you may want to stick to a key tightened
chuck, or buy only the hex shank bits that can't slip -- see next paragraph..
With your drill you will need to buy a set of drill bits. I
suggest you consider starting with one of the snap-in quick change bit holders
such as the Bosch CC2100 Clic-Change -- $15, and some hex-shank bits.
After my DeWalt bit holder wore out and they didn't make it anymore I bought two
or three brands that didn't work well until I found the Bosch. The Sears Speed Lok
sets comes with some bits)
-- $25. Other people make these things. But some of them aren't well
know Black & Decker makes them, but as I explain elsewhere, I avoid B&D
whenever possible. This system is not only more convenient to use it also makes a keyless
chuck less important. If you plan to really get into do-it-yourself buy
the largest set of drills you can afford.
Now you may want to consider a set of 1/4" sockets with a snap-on screwdriver type handle
(can be used like nut-drivers) and a drill adapter that lets you run nuts (and hex head screws/bolts)
on and off with your drill -- ?$12? for a set with 5 sockets, plus a dollar for
a drill adapter.
A 10" curved jaw, locking plier -- Called
Vise-Grip because they
have a locking viselike grip and it's the brand name used by the inventor of this
style tool. Vise-Grip may still be the best locking plier today and, they're
reasonably priced. They lock/clamp on the item. They will scar (bite into)
the object and will crush hollow objects, but you can grab the object so tight
it simply will not slip. They are the only tool that will hold on tight enough
to break some objects loose. When you're getting desperate, out come the
Vise-Grips. You can also use them as a third hand or miniature vise to
hold small objects. I own 6 sizes and styles of Vise-Grip pliers.
If you plan to do electrical work I suggest the following:
This style wire stripper/cutter --
$10 I got my GB model GS-55 at Home Depot.
Klein is probably a better brand -- I think Lowe's carries Klein
A no-contact voltage detector/sensor that lights or buzzes as you get near
(without touching) a live wire. One among several uses, it lets you
verify you've turned off the power before working on a switch, fixture,
outlet, etc. Note: Check it on a known live wire before
each use to be sure it's working -- $15
Well, that's the basic list
This isn't tools exactly but I couldn't figure where
else to put it.
I've switched entirely to square drive wood
Invented by Peter Robertson, a Canadian, and also called
Robertson head screws, they're much easier to use than Phillips. And, as
for slot head screws, they're terrible. I don't know why they still exist.
are some reasons square drive screws are better. So far, these
screws still haven't gotten enough general acceptance to be widely
available. And the places that carry them often don't have a big selection. If you can't find them near you, you can order them
McFeely is pricey, but they're good screws and you'll get their catalog
which has everything you ever wanted to know about screws.
Other tools suggested for purchase after those above:
stud finder -- ?$20 I couldn't decide whether to include this in the starter set
above or not,
so I'm listing it first here. Sorry ladies, these studs are the
wooden framework/structure inside your walls. If you're going to
hang heavy objects
on the wall you need to attach them to studs. I have
2 Zircon units. One is their
cheapest--it wasn't much good, so I bought
unit, the Studsensor Pro
4 SL. It does a pretty good job. All
of them seem to loose their mind sometimes.
A caulking gun -- Caulking around windows and doors reduces air (and
leaking into and out of your house. Painting and repairs to the
(and sometimes the inside) of your house often require caulking. They're
used to caulk tubs, showers, basins, sinks, etc. Construction
is applied with a caulking gun. Do not get a super cheap one. They
and break and frustrate you. Expect to pay in the range of $10-15
depending on where you buy it.
A 3M black plastic sanding block with the
roll paper feeder -- ?$4-7
I'd get one
of these earlier if you have much sanding,
but you can use sandpaper
wrapped around a wooden block. The illustrated one is old so they may
have changed designs but you get the idea.
A flat pry bar (aka WonderBar)--
$9 For removing molding, siding and
up flooring and shingles, and as a lever for shifting heavy objects.
careful if you use it for pulling nails. The bar flexes like a spring and
the nail comes loose the spring action can shoot it across the room
or into your eye. A common size is
Crescent type wrench
10" or 12" -- $25 This assumes you got the
mentioned above. Vice versa if you already have a
Pipe Wrench(es) -- I'm not a good person to
give advice on pipe wrenches. I've
used a pipe wrench only 10 or so times in my life. I only own one 14" pipe
wrench. I'll probably draw a hail of scorn for saying this, but it's a
think you can buy cheap that'll get the the job done. If you intend to
plumb an entire house with iron pipe maybe you want to buy good ones,
but, you can get cheap pipe wrenches for MUCH less that good ones. If
you decide to spring for good ones, get aluminum ones, they're much lighter
and easier to use.
Combination square -- $15
Drain auger -- ?$8?
Torpedo level -- $4 My experience with Stanley torpedo levels
hasn't been good.
If you can find Johnson Level & Tool Co. plastic one they're cheaper
and, in my
experience, better made and more accurate.
Cordless screwdriver -- $24 A cordless drill doubles as a
cordless screwdriver but is a
little clumsy for around the house use. My cordless
screwdriver has an
adjustable clutch so you don't over tighten screws in delicate
Long Nose or Needle-Nose Pliers -- $11
Putty knives 1" and 4" -- $??
10"curved-jaw, arc-joint plier -- This adds a second
Channelock style plier to your collection
Wrenches, wrenches, wrenches -- Click Here For Too Much Explanation
Quick-Grip pistol grip clamp -- $18 It's a third hand. I
chose the 12" model 512QC.
I later added the 6" 506QC, while somewhat less versatile, it's more convenient
More Rulers - Click here for Discussion
Wood Chisels -- $?? -- I have two. A 1/4" and a 1".
I don't use either much and when I do, it
looks more like I used a hatchet, but sometimes they do things easier than
3/4" Cold Chisel -- $??
Nailset -- $?? Used to drive finishing nails below the surface of decorative wood to hide them.
Circular Saw -- $120 See discussion of circular saws above.
Sabre Saw/Jigsaw -- From my discusson
of saws above you know I don't hold sabre/jigsaws in very
high regard. But, they do some jobs other saws can't. Today I own a
Bosh 1587 sabre
saw. Most people rated them the best when I bought it, but others rated the better
Milwaukee best. These
high end sabre saws do a better job than the cheap ones, but
they're still sabre
most of the issues that come with this kind of saw..
Vaughn Bear Claw Nail Puller -- If you have
tear down or renovation work
nail puller is a great help. If there are others like it I
haven't run across
them. If you find it buy it. If not, look for the
ability to hit behind the jaw
with a hammer. The manufacturers of most nail
pullers warn against striking
with a hammer. The Bear Claw is made for it. I have the 12"
have probably gotten the 14 incher if the store had it when
3' Level -- $20-$30 If storage isn't a problem you may want to get
a 4' model. Again, Johnson
Level & Tool Co. is a good mid-price brand.
A Sleeper Tool
For some unknown reason I bought this small pair of
needle nosed vise-grip pliers
years ago (They look like they're for some unusual specialized use.).
They've solved many problems I simply couldn't have solved
without them. They can get in places and lock onto things other pliers
can't. I'm not sure if they sell these small ones anymore and the
size is the key to their usefulness.
Well, there's my list. I hope it helps.
picture of the tools I used on a
project. It gives
you the idea how many tools are required or useful.
The following are only my opinions, they could well be wrong.
They are based on my limited experience, and on ratings I've read in
woodworking magazines and that well known national consumer product
rating magazine. If you don't agree with my
tell your friends, please don't write me.
You can't assume any brand will be
uniformly and consistently superior. All companies make some
weak tools. Some brands make the best available of one kind of tool, but not
others. To get the best tool of each type you have to buy
different brands. But, there are some brands you can look to if
you have no specific information about a given tool.
I avoid Black
& Decker tools when possible. Over the years I've tried
quite a few of their tools and found them generally inferior.
They're cheap, made to attract a mass unaware
Though DeWalt is part of Black & Decker company, it's a different
division, and DeWalt tools are usually good quality. Klein hand
tools are usually good quality. Snap-On or MAC are considered the
best mechanic's tools (socket and hand wrenches, etc.) but they're
quite expensive. Porter-Cable power tools are
usually good quality, but pricey. I own their SawBoss circular saw
and their variable-speed random orbital palm sander. Makita power
tools are usually near the top but not the best. Milwaukee power
tools are something of an enigma to me. They often get high praise
from construction people (real users), but they rarely seem to be the
top magazine rated tools, with one notable exception. The Super Sawzall
reciprocating saw with their patented Counter Balance Mechanism is the
best saw of its kind. Bosch is also a good brand. I own
their jigsaw (sabre saw). In 1999 it was rated best jigsaw.
There was a time when you could depend on Sears Craftsman when you didn't
have specific information, but not any more. Today, they're
spotty. Most of their low priced power tools and many of their
hand tool are substandard. Some of their top priced power tools are made
by major manufactures like DeWalt, but it's hard to know which, and often you can get the major brand version at
Center or Amazon.com for less than Sears' price. You can see my discussion of
Sears socket wrenches in Wrenches, Wrenches,
Finally, another hard call is Stanley. I've probably owned more
Stanley hand tools than all other brands combined (except Craftsman
mechanics tools), probably because they're inexpensive and available almost
everywhere. I haven't looked into it, but either I was lucky years
ago or their quality has declined in recent years. Their quality
today is very spotty. I've never owned an excellent Stanley tool
other than their top screwdrivers bought 20 years ago. Some of
their tools are junk, others are adequate. Their steel tape
measures are adequate. I bought a hardened tip Phillips
screwdriver a few years ago that rounded off after a few uses. The
last time I tried to discuss a bad product with them I found them
I don't have opinions on other brands such as Panasonic, Hitachi,